Because my darling wife couldn’t be bothered doing a blog I have decided to have a go this time.
Our writing styles are very different, Tina likes to talk about food and how she can get bargains, whereas I like to inform people about the places we’ve visited.
I am the caring, loving one in the relationship although Tina likes to paint a different picture of me.
Our next port of call in Brittany was Le Pouldu, recommended to us by the tourist office in Quimperle. Le Pouldu is a quiet port at the mouth of the River Laita, it has several small beaches and good walks. Its main attraction is Maison Musèe du Pouldu, which is a reconstruction of the inn where Paul Gaugin ( mentioned by Tina in her previous blog ) and other artists stayed between 1889 to 1893. They covered every inch of the dining room, including window panes, with self-portraits, caricatures and still- life’s. These were discovered in 1924 beneath layers of wallpaper. Unfortunately on the day of our visit it was closed, much to the delight of Tina..however next door in a church there was an exhibition by an American guy called Miles Hyman, who specialises in graphic art.
During his career he has created drawings for specialist magazines such as Lire, The New Yorker, Le Monde and has illustrated the cover pages and books of many great authors.
I thoroughly enjoyed it whilst Tina did her best and managed about 5 minutes before she made her excuses and left ( probably to go looking at food ).
It was time to hit the beach so Tina could have a rest and chill out. To keep her brain active she is doing Sudoku puzzles, and usually gets me to help her complete them, after 2 hours she shrieked out ” I’ve done it “, ” Clever you ” I replied ” not bad for you , let’s have a look, just to make sure”, only to discover that her shrieks of joy were because she had put ONE number in.😂
By now I was beginning to get restless, so I decided, much to the joy of Tina😣😣, that we should do a little bit more of the GR34 ( the coastal path the covers the full length of Brittany, 1056 miles in total ).
The reason we get on so well with each other is that we have different paces when walking, I am usually about 30 yards in front, so we actually spend very little time together, apart from when I’m helping her climb up or down difficult paths.
“Oh you’re such a caring, loving person ” she will say, ” I don’t know why I write horrible things about you in our blogs”😇.
Reaching the next port and with a gap of about 50 yards over the water to the next little village, it was either a 30 second ferry crossing, a 12 mile walk, to cross over the nearest bridge, or sit with a cool drink, we opted for the latter.
We decided we would move on to Carnac and stay the night in a free Aire in the centre of the village. Arriving 90 minutes later we turned up to the Aire, which was a dreary looking car park with Motorhomes jammed in like sardines. Filling up our water tank for 2 euros we headed back out of town and I decided to follow the signs for the ancient sites ( the reason most people come here ) thinking that there must be a car park. Sure enough half a mile from the site we found a lovely woodland car park with another 5 like minded motorhomes enjoying the peace and quiet of this rural setting.
Carnac is a popular seaside resort, and also one if the world’s great prehistoric sites with almost 3000 menhirs ( granite rocks ) arranged in mysterious lines and patterns by Megalithic tribes as early as 4000BC.
Their original purpose remains obscure; the significance was probably religious, but the precise patterns also suggest an early astronomical calendar.
After lunch we headed off to Auray, which is one of the Beau villages of Brittany. Auray is situated on an estuary to the Northwest corner of the Gulf of Morbihan. There are two separate parts to the town: the main town and historical centre on the top of the hill and the port town of Saint Goustan, on the bank of the Auray River, which served as a major trading site from the 1600’s – 1800’s, even welcoming Benjamin Franklin who arrived here in 1776 in order to solicit the support of the French in the American War of Independence.
Because it was the time when the French either eat or drink ( which seems to be nearly all day ) we found that we nearly had all the streets to ourselves.
Tina found an amazing artisan workshop who made the most amazing things out any discarded odds and ends.
After a couple of hours wandering through the streets and in these amazing artisan workshops we headed off for third and final destination of the day, Vannes.
Vannes stands at the head of the Golfe du Morbihan ( to give it its correct title ) and was once the capital of the Veneti, a seafaring Armorican tribe defeated by Cesar in 56 BC. It has a well preserved medieval quater and two of the old gates still survive at either end. The city’s old market squares are still in use today and the streets are full of well preserved 16th century houses.
Once again because it was between the hours of 7am and 11 pm the French were busy eating and we more or less had the streets to ourselves 😄.
Unfortunately Vannes doesn’t have any free Aire’s, so we spent the night parked at the side of the road.
The Golfe du Morbihan is dotted with islands of which around 40 are inhabited. There are several small harbours where the locals make their living from fishing, oyster cultivation and tourism.
The following morning we made our way down to the port for a 30 minute ferry ride to Ìle- d’Arz, the second largest isle in the Gulf measuring a mighty 3.3 square kilometres. During the winter months it has 260 residents which rises to 2500 during the summer months!! We walked the full coastal path on the island before catching the ferry back.
Whilst our solar panel can charge up our phones we were now in need of electricity, to charge our kindles and power packs up. A quick look into the Aires book told us that there was a site with just what we were looking for about 7 miles away, in a rural setting but within walking distance to the Gulf.
For 11 euros a night we had electrity, showers, a toilet and free wi fi, so because we haven’t had to pay anything for a while we decided to chill out and spend a couple of days here.
By now the mercury was reaching 35°C so much to Tinas joy😆😆 we had two reasonably lazy days, walking along the coastal path, admiring some fantastic properties overlooking the bay, watching the locals take their exercise in the water, reading and chilling at the beach.
After 31 days and 30 places visited it was time to leave Brittany..
Next stop the Loire Valley..