We had a discussion as to who should write this blog, me or Kev. Kev’s advice was to put after the title…. “or for you thick f*cks out there, it translates as “The Pink Granite Coast” we decided I was best to do the blog! 😂🤐
This coastline is stunning and it stretches for more than 30km in the Côtes d’Armour region in Brittany. It is very rugged with rocks protruding up out of the sea and they look like they’ve been strategically placed along the coastline. These rocks have been here for 300 million years!! It could look even better when the sun is shining but for now it seemed we were having fog, light rain and mostly overcast skies…with promises of better weather.
We headed on to Paimpol, another coastal town, and from here we could visit Il de Brehat. The aire Kev had chosen was an old school car park, that had been converted to a fully serviced aire. By this I mean we had electric, water and both grey and black waste disposal. All this for only €9.20 a night.
When we arrived at the aire the barrier was broken so we just drove straight in, plugged in, filled up with water and emptied out the rest. Can’t beat a free night with electricity.
The aire was very close to everything, a Lidl and Carrefour one way, town and port the other way and a coastal walk to Abbey Beauport.
The harbour was beautiful and a perfect place to have a drink whilst people watching. It was surrounded by cafes/bar, restaurants and small boutiques.
We’d checked the weather forecast (don’t know why as it’d been wrong most days!) and it said it was going to be hot and sunny the following day. This was just what we’d been waiting for. We booked the ferry to the island for 9.20am the next day.
We thought we’d sorted the cooker out, by removing the top and cleaning out the debris from near the gas outlet. It worked for a day but now back to normal low flames so we’re having to cook “one pot wonders”. Fortunately the French have some gorgeous tinned meals so we’ve been eating these for lunch and I’ve been using our camping stove as the main cooker for an evening meal. It’s strange what you get used whilst in the motorhome. Turning the tap off whilst brushing your teeth, buying only shopping you need to last a few days (so you’re not overloaded with food), using colour catcher sheets so you can put whites and coloureds into the washing machine together etc.
Anyway back to Paimpol. As predicted the weather was glorious the following day, and the Il de Brehat did not disappoint. It’d only 3.09km2 but boy does it pack a punch. It has a tropical feel to it and every house has beautiful flowers in its garden. We walked for miles around the winding roads. No vehicles other than bikes and tractors are allowed on the island .
We arrived on the island around 10am and left at 4.30pm, a small place with a lot to see. We climbed to the highest point and overlooked the coast from beside the small village chapel.
When we got back off the ferry we made a quick stop to the Tourist Information office. We’d been given a great tip by some fellow travellers, Carol and Mike, to make use of the free WiFi they offer and to download some TV programmes onto my phone. I made 3 visits and downloaded 5 episodes of “Orange is the New Black” on Netflix 😀.
We left here and carried on down the coast to a little place called Tréguier. It is described as a “City of petite character”. We parked up by the side of the river. It was a free aire with gorgeous views and amazing sunsets.
The city of petite character had HUGE character. These little stop-offs have been great. We’re lucky that we have plenty of time to be able to see all these. If you only have a few weeks then you have to have a basic plan and stick to it. In the Michelin Tourist and Motoring Atlas it places an * at the side of the city/town to show if it’s a place of interest. We are tending to use this as a guide of where our next port of call will be. We can highly recommend this book if coming over to France.
It didn’t let us down. It was so charming. There was a very impressive church in the centre surrounded by quaint shops. A little old lady, that looked Miss Marple, was dressed in her a Sunday best and sat watching the world go by. She looked very smart in her floral dress and straw hat. 😊
The following day we went off to a small coastal place called Plougrescant. We found somewhere to park and went off in search of the sea. It started raining, great! Seems we’d parked 3.7 miles from the sea so by the time we got to it we were wet and I wasn’t happy. Kev knew I’d be wound up and cursing him for parking so far away, so he did his normal thing. “There’s a cafe just round this corner, we’ll stop and have a coffee and try the crêpes”. 🤔 Was there a cafe? No! It’s amazing what he proclaims is “just round this corner”.
We sat down and could see that it was brightening up a bit so decided to walk back and bring the motorhome closer. The view was going to be much better when the sun came out and we didn’t want to miss it. Below are photos of before and after the sun came out.
We were right. Wow. Gorgeous. Huge rocks with the bluey green water splashing up on them. We sat and took in the views for about half an hour just lost in our thoughts. It was perfect.
Someone had to go and spoil the perfect moment though and guess who it was? Yep….my charming husband. “Right come on tubby let’s get walking again, you need to get rid of all that fat you’re carrying on your belly”. I threw him ‘the look’. “Dunt look like that at me, it’s not my fault your fat, I’m the one trying to help you. Tha must struggle carrying all that ugly fat around, but then again you’re ugly anyway, but I dunt mind I still love thee” he says in his over exaggerated Yorkshire accent. 😲
We walked along the GR34 coastal path and it brought us to a house in the rocks. It had literally been built between 2 rocks and one of the side walls had incorporated the rock. Amazing place.
We headed back to the motorhome and went back to the aire we stayed an it the previous night. It was free, had great views, and was on our way to the next stop off.
We’d called at the supermarket previously. We’ve sussed out that as they only open for the morning (in some places not even that) on a Sunday, they start reducing the fresh produce on a Friday night. We’d managed to fill our tiny freezer with sausages, chicken breasts and Provencale herb coated pork steaks all for under €10. We could get 6 meals from it haha 😉. We feasted on 3 different kinds of sausages with new potatoes and carrot batons coated with garlic, herb and onion butter. 😋 We wouldn’t have put that kind of meal together when we lived in a house but our eating habits have changed since we’ve started travelling more. We don’t go for nice restaurants, fancy meals etc. It’s just what’s easiest to cook and is tasty and filling. When you’ve eaten in over 50 countries and tried all the local cuisine you just get used to eating anything at any time of day. Noodles in China, egg curry and rice in India, Thai Green curry with rice and a fried egg in Thailand and all these were what we ate for breakfast 😉😂.
Our final place this week was in Trègastel. We’ve only drove 91 miles this week, even with all the different places we’ve been to. There’s just so many great coastal towns in Brittany.
Here we stayed on a payable aire (€8 a night). Got a great spot in the corner with our own ‘garden’.
This place had 2* on the road atlas so we knew it had some good sights to see on the coast. Take a look. These were all within walking distance 😍. You can see the difference from when the sun was shining and when it was dull!
There were 7 small islands close by and one was called Il de Lapin (the island of rabbits). Unfortunately we never got to get on it as the times of the boats didn’t coincide with ouour timetable or the weather! We did, however, see rabbits on the beach near us. 🐇
A guy was walking on the beach with his lunch in his backpack….2 baguettes. Haha. They have these crusty rolls with everything. Butter, chips, burgers or just dry on the way back from the bakery. They’re inexpensive and scrumptious spread with real butter 😋.
As we were coming out of the motor home to go for an evening stroll, I was standing on the step but couldn’t get out as Kev had left my shoes on the step below. I asked him to move them. He picked them up and launched them onto the grass, then carried on putting his own shoes on 🤔. I pushed him with my foot so he lost his balance 😅. He then turned round and pointed his finger at me, saying “You can stop that fatty! Don’t ever lay a finger on me or I’ll punch you in the face, kick you until you fall on the floor then stamp on your head…..until it bleeds” 🤕😂. I know it sounds awful but it was said in jest and I cracked up laughing. We locked the motorhome door, he passed me my drinks bottle “Thanks darlin'” I said. “You’re welcome babycakes” he replied. Pure sarcasm at its’ best.
We’ve now moved on to a place called Saint Pol-de-Léon. Parked up facing the sea, it’s cold and damp. Tomorrow is supposed to be lovely. We’re heading to Roscoff where the onion sellers (nicknamed Onion Johnnies) in Great Britain originated. These are the guys on bikes that have strings of onions attached to them and sell door to door. There’s not many in GB now though.
Our little aire tonight is another freebie. Some people like to stay on campsites, us we prefer mostly to stay on aires. We spent £106 for a week on a campsite when friends came to stay, and all we did was park up, go in the swimming pool once, and use the showers. In the remaining 4 weeks we’ve spent £110 on aires. We parked up and used our own shower. There’s no contest. If we get fed up in one place we move on……love this nomadic life #homeiswhereyoupark